English Heritage adventure...

Since last August we've had family membership of English Heritage. We have managed to find ourselves taking advantage of this in; Devonshire (God's own Country, by the way, He, being Devonian. Seems patently obvious to me), Yorkshire (God's Holiday county, when He's not in Devon) and the East Midlands.

These visits have been lovely, mainly because I like my buildings like I like my knees, ruined. It is the various state of ruin that intrigues me. From pieces of wall, that provide a foundation footprint (Roman Forts on Hadrians wall), to near complete structures (Dartmouth Castle, being a great example) and then, everything in between.

They have, at times, both surprised and disappointed my expectations. Mostly, surprised. And some, well, they have quite frankly struck me with awe. Awe, both in structural size and the human ingenuity required to build structures (and wealth, always comes back to wealth. Privilege too, of course).

The highlights so far have been the Abbey's. Those long decayed buildings, ripped asunder by the insatiable lust, and greed of the Tudor's. What we have left, some converted and survived, mostly, however, in various states of ruin. We have visited three. A paltry figure really. But they are some of the most important and most impressive in the country.

Furness Abbey (Cistercian Monks) - (Cumbria)




It's enormous. It covers a huge site. It also happened to be one of the richest Abbey's in England at its peak. It was, essentially, the powerhouse of the local economy and controlled a lot of the trade. It was also founded by a man, destined to be a king of England, called Stephen. 


 Made of red sandstone. It really is a striking building, because of this. Some parts are in far greater repair than other sections, as you can see from the following photos. 

The grandeur, however, is unmistakeable, as befits one of the wealthiest institutions.


The majestic arches in the red sandstone.



Internally, there are large sections that retain a fair sense of proportion, giving an idea of size and scale.






Whitby Abbey (Benedictine Monks) - (North Yorkshire)

If not as wealthy as, Furness abbey, then Whitby Abbey, is arguably more recognisable/famous than it's far grander relation in Cumbria. Some of this is inherent in its prominent location. Standing above the town of Whitby, the ruins provide both a sense of dominance and provides for a stunning back drop.


It's certainly quite a sight and depending on the weather it can appear quite eerie. This eeriness has in no small part been built upon the, Dracula, legend penned by, Bram Stoker. Whitby being the place, where the Transylvanian count landed.



Whitby Abbey, also held a synod in the 7th century, which brought, Northumberland into step with the catholic calender. It is a behemoth of a building, that stands upon the glorious North Yorskhire coastline. It physically rears up to you as you approve the town via the top road. Of the Abbeys we've visited, Whitby Abbey, is arguably framed in the most picturesque landscape. 

an earlier depiction of the Abbey


Rievaulx Abbey - (Cistercian Monks) - (Yorkshire)

Another Abbey in Yorkshire. And in all aspects, the finest one I have visited. Whereas Whitby abbey stands high and proud, dominating the surrounding landscape, Rievaulx Abbey lies hidden in a deep valley (Ideal for the Cistercian's who founded the Abbey and who wanted as little contact with the outside world as possible). It's not an easy approach road, in all honesty. But, it is so worth the narrow, winding, lanes for the view when you receive the Abbey ruins.
Architecture is a physical and imposing form of art. It can move us, as much as paintings or sculpture, and it should. Church architecture also has a language and a meaning in its construction and layout. This is particularly impressive in the enormous Abbey, at Rievaulx. Second only in fame and perhaps grandeur to, Fountains Abbey (Again, in Yorkshire, a county seemingly littered with English Heritage sites). 



It is one of my favourite places now. I had an inkling that it was going to be impressive before we went, but the reality was so much more than what my imagination could conjure, it exceeded it and then more. I couldn't recommend it enough. We visited in late autumn, end of October, and as you can see from above and below the day was grey and at times quite dark. It would be good to go back in the summer when the valley is in full bloom.


Each site, unique in the way it inspires. This is the reason why we took out English Heritage membership. To have a year to take in as many sites as we could in the time provided. We've done well so far.
Here's to taking in a few more before then.






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